Material Recommendations for Cockpit

[TeamEndeavor]

I'm close to starting fab work on the cockpit (dash/controls). What do you suggest for material? (thickness of the alum) -- Thanks -- Scott

[chuck]

Keep everything as simple as possible. Use as little wiring AP, as few switches AP. The first year we had too much stuff 11 DPDT switches Last year we had 5 SPST switches and one was a spare.
The amber rear light ( am running 1 LED light for this)has to be on when you are running so connect it to the ing sw. I used the dimmer sw. to turn the hi bim of the shock lights on and off last year and had the low beams on all the time. The H-4s were mounted to the fiberglass grill and they went away in the roll. This year they are being replaced with lite force 500,000 lights, the beam is adjustable so I will have them as close up fan beams and turn them on/off with the dimmer sw.
The A/C has it's own controls.

[TeamEndeavor]

The first year we had too much stuff 11 DPDT switches Last year we had 5 SPST switches and one was a spare.

:D LOL :D
I sketched up a dash last night and I bet I had 20 DPDT switches!! I sure would look cool, though!! :D

Good advice, Chuck -- Thanks!

[chuck]

:D LOL :D
I sketched up a dash last night and I bet I had 20 DPDT switches!! I sure would look cool, though!! :D

Good advice, Chuck -- Thanks!
Anyway you go use the sealed switches, if not the dust will screw them up
That reminds me, you will need a breathing air cleaner. Phil uses a parker pimper as most racers do. I designed a A/C sustem for our racer that works very well, filtered air at whatever temp you want it comming into your helmit is very nice. It costthe same a A/C so it is a little pricey but if you are interested I can show you what I have and you might hit the bone yards and work up something that will work in your racer. Cold air on your face makes a big diff.
I don't know what you [;an for seats but check out the beard RX-1s. They will keep you in place. Phil is also running this seat and I can get a little bit of a deal on them.

[TeamEndeavor]

This year they are being replaced with lite force 500,000 lights, the beam is adjustable so I will have them as close up fan beams and turn them on/off with the dimmer sw.

Chuck -- which model LiteForce lights are you getting? Also, those RX-1's look great! As soon as I figure out what color we're doin', I'll call you to order some. I'll buzz you next week to order the C6/D20 adapter and shaft anyway. I'll check out your A/C in November, but at this point I think we're going with the simple parker pumper. Do you run a serpentine belt or V's?

[IronBenderII]

Chuck is right. Keep it simple!!!! This guy does custom panels with whatever you want. Here are a couple of samples...

http://www.12voltguy.com/catalog.0.html46.0.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343310&page=7&pp=25 (scroll down a ways).`

These trucks SHOULD be very simple and shouldn't require a whole lot of wiring. Use good quality wire and keep it away from harm.

As for materials and such, if you buid a custom dash, a hinged dash for easy access would be nice.

Jack

[TeamEndeavor]

Chuck is right. Keep it simple!!!! This guy does custom panels with whatever you want. Here are a couple of samples...

http://www.12voltguy.com/catalog.0.html46.0.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343310&page=7&pp=25 (scroll down a ways).`

These trucks SHOULD be very simple and shouldn't require a whole lot of wiring. Use good quality wire and keep it away from harm.

As for materials and such, if you buid a custom dash, a hinged dash for easy access would be nice.

Jack
That's nice lookin' stuff -- another change to my list! :D I had thought about hingin' the dash(or at least the gauge/switch panels) and using quarter turns for easy/quick access. What gauge alum do you recommend?

[IronBenderII]

Well, it isn't structural so I'd keep it as light as possible. Somewhere from 17 to 20 seems reasonable. For the floors and such, think of drivelines and exploding drivetrain. You might add some expanded metal or something to key areas. I had a driveline come up through the floor and if it weren't for my cage it could have been ugly.

When I eventually get the queue cleared up a bit and start on my racer I'm going to do a cockpit style dash. Everything close enough to see/reach easily but far enough away not to be dangerous. I need to find a guy with a tube roller for long gentle bends.

Jack

[AdminTazz]

Chuck is right. Keep it simple!!!! This guy does custom panels with whatever you want. Here are a couple of samples...

http://www.12voltguy.com/catalog.0.html46.0.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343310&page=7&pp=25 (scroll down a ways).`

These trucks SHOULD be very simple and shouldn't require a whole lot of wiring. Use good quality wire and keep it away from harm.

As for materials and such, if you buid a custom dash, a hinged dash for easy access would be nice.

JackI'll second Jack on Darrens stuff. He supplied my toggles & fuse panel.
http://tazz.classicbroncos.com/cgi/photo/data/504/1IMG_0787.jpg

and my Ignition panel.
http://tazz.classicbroncos.com/cgi/photo/data/504/1IMG_0785.jpg

He supplied all of the connectors (High Quality) including extras included in the price and at a very reasonable cost. At the time he didn't sell wire unless you purchase full spools.

Dan

[TeamEndeavor]

I'll second Jack on Darrens stuff. He supplied my toggles & fuse panel.
http://tazz.classicbroncos.com/cgi/photo/data/504/1IMG_0787.jpg

and my Ignition panel.
http://tazz.classicbroncos.com/cgi/photo/data/504/1IMG_0785.jpg

He supplied all of the connectors (High Quality) including extras included in the price and at a very reasonable cost. At the time he didn't sell wire unless you purchase full spools.

Dan
I'm definitely getting my stuff from him -- How do you wire up those Ignition and Starter switches?

[IronBenderII]

It all comes pre-wired. You supply the incoming and he'll give you the switched power. I'd have it run a relay. Relays are your friend. I love relays. Take a look at these http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=400228+310758 I'll be using these on my racer for sure.

Jack

[AdminTazz]

It a simple setup and pretty strait forward. Power in to the switch, it is prewired to the starter button. One power out to main relay off toggle, and one off the starter button to starter relay.

[TeamEndeavor]

It all comes pre-wired. You supply the incoming and he'll give you the switched power. I'd have it run a relay. Relays are your friend. I love relays. Take a look at these http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=400228+310758 I'll be using these on my racer for sure.

Jack
That ganged relay center is awesome. Talk about simplifying things! Nice -- the Dedenbear site has a nice diagram and tech specs as well. Thanks for the help on this stuff!

[IronBenderII]

That ganged relay center is awesome. Talk about simplifying things! Nice -- the Dedenbear site has a nice diagram and tech specs as well. Thanks for the help on this stuff!

No problem. I really like the packaging and the ease of troubleshooting.

Jack

[chuck]

Chuck -- which model LiteForce lights are you getting? Also, those RX-1's look great! As soon as I figure out what color we're doin', I'll call you to order some. I'll buzz you next week to order the C6/D20 adapter and shaft anyway. I'll check out your A/C in November, but at this point I think we're going with the simple parker pumper. Do you run a serpentine belt or V's?
I do run the S-belt
I use the 170 lightforce lights
It will take about 6 weeks to get the RX-1's
You will need a shade of your gauges, that is why mine are near hte floor and back up under the dash. Also remember that the drivers drives, the co-pilot does everything else including GPS info and check the gauges while watching out for things in the front and rear and talking onm the radio So have all of that stuff where it can be seen fron the drivers seat but right where the co can get to them. You will need a rest for the hand of the Co near the GPS or the Co will have a hard time changing it. Same with the radio.

[IronBenderII]

Hey guys, have a look at this. Pigpen emailed me about this. He wires fire trucks for a living and has this relay center. There are enough relays for your entire truck. The harness off to the side goes to your switch harness and the output is up top. There are green LED's that indicate the relay is powered on. The relays are easily swapped out if there is a problem.

He's asking $375 for it (including the switch harness), which is a good deal considering what Dedenbaur is getting for theirs. If you don't want it let me know and that may just be the first part for my racer.

Jack

[TeamEndeavor]

Hey guys, have a look at this. Pigpen emailed me about this. He wires fire trucks for a living and has this relay center. There are enough relays for your entire truck. The harness off to the side goes to your switch harness and the output is up top. There are green LED's that indicate the relay is powered on. The relays are easily swapped out if there is a problem.

He's asking $375 for it (including the switch harness), which is a good deal considering what Dedenbaur is getting for theirs. If you don't want it let me know and that may just be the first part for my racer.

Jack

Perfect -- I'm in. It will work well with the stuff I ordered from 12voltguy, Darren.

[IronBenderII]

Email him @ pigpens70@hotmail.com

Jack

[TeamEndeavor]

Email him @ pigpens70@hotmail.com

Jack
Done -- thanks Jack -- a very productive day even though I'm a long way from home! :D